Standing in the pitch blackness of the chilled night and with my sandals
sinking ever deeper into the mud beneath my feet, I listened as the
putter of motor drove steadily further away. Apparently, the rain
earlier that day had reached further south than we had expected, and
after several skids and spills, my companion and his driver decided the
road was too dangerous to continue. And thus, after several murmured
words between our drivers and my friend and the passing of several
leaves of US dollars, we were unceremoniously dumped at the side of the
road. The road, being nothing more than a narrow path between the
unhindered growth of tall grass—or what I had perceived to be tall
grass. The rustling sound they made from the wind that moved by us was
at the height of my hips.
There was something disconcerting about
the night. It wasn't the sheer amount of mosquitoes and small bugs, or
the fact that we had been practically abandoned, but the actual lack of
light. I've never really realized the comfort of light before. Perhaps
it was the fact that I was used to the ever present buzz of
electricity—TV, computer, laptops, even a random car passing by the
window, each shedding a glimmer of light and also shadow. A touch of
civilization. Now, the only light was the feeble shimmer of moon against
the still stream beside the slippery mud road.
There was also
another kind of buzz. This one, inquisitive and bloodsucking. I brushed it away with some vigor, and with goosebumps breaking out on
my arms at the vision of hundreds and thousands of mosquitoes that could
be floating around us and biting and—I realized to my horror, I was
becoming what I had never imagined I could be. Scared of the dark.
Annoyed, I asked with more bitterness than intended, "What are we
waiting for?"
"Ah? Oh, a boat. The driver said there should be one coming soon."
I
didn't know how a person with a boat could know we were here when we
ourselves didn't know we were stopping here to begin with, and then to
know to come pick us up at this time of night or where or even why, but
to save myself from looking completely clueless, I simply said, "Oh."
Time
passed differently in the dark. We waited for what seemed like hours,
but was probably only fifteen minutes according to the almost
imperceptible passage of the moon in the sky—since surely, if it had
been hours the moon would have been higher or even begun to drop, but it
didn't. It simply hung in the sky. A small white disk in a deep blue
sea with cascades of pinpoint stars. Then there was—finally, thank
God!—a steady lapping in the water that sounded no more than the lapping
of the water against the banks, and my friend hulloed into the night.
By the rustle of his windbreaker and the faint flutter of the white
stripe on the arms of his jacket in moonlight, I expected he was waving
the boat down. Clearly, their eyes were much better than mine as I
didn't see the boat until it was on the bank. It was a long, narrow
boat, smelling sharply of fish.
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